Watching a Roma or Lazio Match During Your Stay

Guests ask us about football more often than almost anything except the Vatican. Last season, a couple from Manchester staying in one of our rooms asked on their first morning whether they could get tickets to see Roma that weekend. Another guest, a retired teacher from Lyon, simply wanted to know where she could watch Lazio with locals, because she had heard the atmosphere in Roman bars on match nights was something to experience.

Rome has two major clubs, AS Roma and SS Lazio, and both play at the Stadio Olimpico, a short journey north of our neighborhood in Prati. Whether you want to go to the stadium or just watch with a crowd, a match can be one of the most memorable evenings of a Roman trip.

Roma, Lazio and the city

Football in Rome is not background noise. It divides families, neighborhoods and offices. Roma supporters tend to be more numerous across the city, while Lazio has deep roots in particular areas and among particular families. The Derby della Capitale, when the two meet, is one of the most intense fixtures in Italian football, and the city feels different for days before and after.

Most guests do not need to choose a side. But it helps to know that wearing one club's colors in the wrong bar on derby day is not a good idea, and that Romans enjoy talking about football almost as much as watching it.

Going to the Stadio Olimpico

The Olimpico sits in the Foro Italico sports complex. From Ottaviano, the simplest route is usually a tram or bus toward Piazza Mancini, followed by a walk across the river, or a taxi if you prefer. Allow plenty of time. Crowds, security checks and ID controls mean you should arrive at least an hour before kick off.

Kick off times in Serie A are often confirmed only a few weeks in advance and sometimes moved, so check close to the date. How to book a Rome stay without overpaying also covers timing a trip around busy weekends.

Watching in a bar instead

Many guests find that watching in a local bar is more relaxed, and in some ways more Roman, than going to the stadium. Neighborhood bars across Prati and nearby areas show matches, and on a big night the atmosphere is loud, opinionated and friendly.

Look for bars with a screen visible from the street and a crowd already gathering before kick off. Order at the counter, find a spot and enjoy the commentary from the people around you, which is often more entertaining than the television's. You will see locals following other scores on their phones, some checking their weekly pools on apps or sites like ankertoto, and plenty of loud advice for the referee.

The advice I disagree with: avoid match days in Rome

Some travel guides advise visitors to avoid Rome on match days, warning of crowds, traffic and rowdy fans.

I think this is mostly unnecessary. For the great majority of matches, the effect on the city center is small. Traffic near the stadium is heavy for a few hours, and some bars are busier than usual, but the Vatican, the historic center and our quiet streets in Prati are largely unaffected. The derby and a few high profile matches are exceptions, when it makes sense to avoid the stadium area and any obviously partisan bars if you are not going to the match.

For most visitors, a match day is an opportunity rather than a problem. It shows a side of Roman life that no museum can.

Our practical tips

• Ask us at breakfast which nearby bars will be showing the match. We can point you toward places with a good atmosphere.
• Eat dinner before or after rather than during a big match, when kitchens are sometimes slower.
• If you go to the stadium, keep valuables to a minimum and carry only what you need.
• Learn a few words: gol, rigore for penalty and arbitro for referee will serve you well.
• Be respectful of both clubs, whoever you end up supporting for the night.

The couple from Manchester did get tickets, through the official Roma site, and came back after midnight hoarse and delighted. The teacher from Lyon watched the Lazio match in a bar two streets from us and was invited to join a table of regulars at half time. If you are exploring our area, walking the Prati and Ottaviano neighbourhood is a good place to start, and our Experiences section has more ideas for your stay.