Rome Jewish Ghetto Food and What to Order on Your Visit

Guests often tell us they walked through the old Jewish quarter, saw a dozen restaurants with artichokes stacked in the window, and had no idea which one to choose or what to order. Rome Jewish Ghetto food is some of the oldest cooking in the city, and it is worth a proper meal rather than a quick plate grabbed between sights.

This guide covers the dishes that matter, when they are in season, how much to expect to pay, and how to get there from Prati without wasting an afternoon. I eat in the Ghetto several times each winter, usually with friends who are visiting Rome for the first time, so these notes come from many lunches rather than one.

Where the Ghetto is and how to get there from Prati

The Jewish Ghetto sits on the left bank of the Tiber, between the Theatre of Marcellus and Largo di Torre Argentina. Its main street is Via del Portico d'Ottavia, a short, slightly curving road lined with restaurants and named after the ancient Roman portico that still stands at one end.

From our rooms near Ottaviano, you have two easy options:

• Walk. Cross Ponte Sant'Angelo or Ponte Umberto, then follow the river south. It is about 3 km and takes 35 to 40 minutes at a relaxed pace, with Campo de' Fiori on the way.
• Bus. Line 23 runs along the river from the Prati side and stops near the Ghetto. Allow 20 to 30 minutes depending on traffic, and buy a 1.50 euro ticket before you board or tap a contactless card on the reader.

A taxi from Prati costs roughly 12 to 16 euro during the day. Walking there and taking the bus back after a heavy lunch is the combination most guests enjoy.

Rome Jewish Ghetto food and what to order

Roman Jewish cooking grew out of centuries of restriction, when the community lived inside walls and made do with cheap cuts, offcuts of fish and whatever vegetables were left at the market. The result is a cuisine built on frying, curing and long cooking, and many of its dishes later became standard Roman food.

Carciofi alla giudia

The signature dish: a whole artichoke flattened, fried twice in olive oil until the outer leaves turn crisp and bronze like a flower, while the heart stays soft. The best come from Roman artichokes in season, roughly November to April. Expect to pay 8 to 12 euro for one. Eat the outer leaves with your fingers like crisps, then move inward.

Fiori di zucca

Courgette flowers stuffed with mozzarella and a small piece of anchovy, battered and fried. They are lighter than they sound and make a good shared starter, usually 2 to 3 euro each.

Aliciotti con l'indivia

Fresh anchovies layered with curly endive and baked until the edges crisp. It is a winter dish and one of the best ways to taste what this kitchen does with humble ingredients.

Concia di zucchine

Fried courgette slices marinated in vinegar, garlic and mint. It is served cold as a side and cuts through all the fried food nicely.

Baccala fritto

Salt cod in batter, crisp outside and flaky inside. Many places serve it as part of a mixed fry platter, which is the easiest way to taste several things at once.

Something sweet

The tiny unmarked bakery at the corner of Via del Portico d'Ottavia, known locally as Boccione, has been baking for generations. Look for the torta ricotta e visciole, a ricotta and sour cherry tart with a slightly scorched top, and the pizza ebraica, a dense bar packed with almonds, pine nuts, raisins and candied fruit. Both are sold by weight, so a slice for two costs around 4 to 6 euro. There is often a queue, and they close early on Fridays.

A sample lunch and what it costs

For two people at a sit down restaurant on the main street, a typical order looks like this:

That puts lunch at roughly 60 to 75 euro for two, before dessert. Bread and cover charges vary, so check the menu. A tip is welcome but not expected in the way it is in some countries.

Why the usual "avoid the main street" rule is wrong here

Most food advice for Rome says to walk two streets away from any landmark before you sit down, because restaurants with outdoor tables on a busy pedestrian strip are aimed at tourists. That is generally sound. In the Ghetto, it is backwards.

The restaurants on Via del Portico d'Ottavia are the established family places, several of them run by the same families for decades, and they are where Roman families come for Sunday lunch. The side streets have fewer options, and some of the newer spots trade on the neighbourhood name without the cooking to match. Here the main street is the right street.

What you should watch for instead is season. A carciofo alla giudia in July is usually made with imported or frozen artichokes, and it is tougher and less sweet. If you visit in summer, order the courgette flowers and fried fish and save the artichoke for a winter trip.

Practical things to know before you go

• Kosher and non kosher places sit side by side. Kosher restaurants follow dietary laws, so you will not find dishes that mix meat and dairy. If you want cacio e pepe with your artichoke, check whether the place is a dairy or a meat restaurant.
• Shabbat closing. Many kosher restaurants close from Friday afternoon until Saturday evening. If you plan a Saturday lunch, choose a non kosher place or go on another day.
• Book for Sunday lunch. It is the busiest meal of the week. A call or online booking a day ahead is enough most of the year.
• Visit the synagogue and museum. The Great Synagogue and the Jewish Museum of Rome are on the river side of the quarter. A guided visit takes about an hour and gives the food real context.

If you would rather stay close to the rooms, our list of where to eat near the Vatican covers good options a short walk away. For general menu help, see what to order at a Roman trattoria, and for the city's most argued about pasta, our guide to finding a proper carbonara in Rome.

Frequently asked questions

What is the Jewish Ghetto in Rome famous for?

It is best known for carciofi alla giudia, the double fried whole artichoke, along with fried courgette flowers, salt cod and the ricotta and sour cherry tart from its old bakery. It is also one of the oldest Jewish communities in Europe, with roots in Rome going back more than 2,000 years.

When is artichoke season in Rome?

Roman artichokes are at their best from roughly November to April, with the peak in February and March. Outside these months, restaurants still serve them, but they are usually not local and the texture suffers.

Are Jewish Ghetto restaurants open on Saturday?

Kosher restaurants generally close for Shabbat, from Friday before sunset until Saturday evening. Non kosher restaurants in the quarter usually open as normal, so check which type you are booking before you plan a Saturday meal.