Piazza Navona Christmas Market Guide for Guests in Prati

Every December guests ask us the same thing at check in: is the Piazza Navona Christmas market worth an evening, and how do we get there without paying for a taxi? The short answer is yes, if you know what you are walking into, and you can reach it on foot from our door in about half an hour.

I have lived between Prati and the centro storico for most of my life, and I have watched this market shrink, grow and change its dates more than once. Here is what it is really like now, when to go, what to buy and the walking route we give our own guests.

What the Piazza Navona Christmas market actually is

Romans call it the Mercatino di Natale or, more often, the market of the Befana. The Befana is the kind old witch of Italian folklore who flies on her broom on the night of 5 January, leaving sweets for good children and lumps of coal for naughty ones. That is why the market traditionally runs until 6 January, the Epiphany, rather than closing on Christmas Day.

The setting does a lot of the work. Piazza Navona follows the oval shape of the ancient Stadium of Domitian, and the stalls line the long sides around Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers, with the Fontana del Moro at the south end and the Fontana del Nettuno at the north. The church of Sant'Agnese in Agone rises in the middle of the west side, lit up in the evenings.

In recent years the market has usually opened in the first week of December, but dates and the number of stalls depend on the city permits issued each autumn. Ask us at reception when you arrive and we will tell you what is open that week.

What you will find on the stalls

This is a family market more than a shopping trip. Expect:

• Carbone dolce, the black sugar "coal" the Befana leaves for naughty children. A small bag costs around 3 to 5 euros and makes a funny souvenir for anyone back home.
• Torrone, the nougat with almonds or hazelnuts, often sold by weight. Ask for a taste before you buy a large slab.
• Roasted chestnuts in a paper cone, usually 4 to 6 euros, depending on the size of the portion.
• Nativity figures for a presepe, from tiny shepherds at a couple of euros to hand-painted pieces costing far more.
• Befana dolls, toys and balloons, plus a carousel that runs most evenings and is the real highlight for younger children.

Prices are tourist prices. They are not outrageous, but you will pay a little more here than in a neighbourhood shop.

Walking from Prati to Piazza Navona

From Ottaviano the walk is roughly 2 km and takes 25 to 30 minutes at an easy pace. It is the route we recommend to every guest, and it is pleasant even on a cold night.

1. Walk down Via Cola di Rienzo towards Piazza Cavour. The shops here stay open until about 8 pm and are dressed for Christmas through December.
2. Pass the Palace of Justice on your right and cross the Tiber on Ponte Umberto I.
3. Continue straight into Via Giuseppe Zanardelli. After about five minutes you come out at the north end of Piazza Navona, by the Fontana del Nettuno.

On the way back, many guests detour to Ponte Sant'Angelo for the view of the castle lit at night, then follow the river home. If you enjoy the route, our guide to walking the Prati and Ottaviano neighbourhood has more ideas for the streets close to the B and B.

Buses do run nearby, but in December traffic around Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Corso Rinascimento is heavy. Walking is almost always faster. A taxi from our door costs about 10 to 14 euros and can take longer than your feet.

When to go and how to avoid the crush

Timing changes the whole experience. Here is how the day usually plays out:

Wear comfortable shoes, keep your bag zipped and in front of you, and keep your phone in an inside pocket. Crowded squares are where pickpockets work, and this one is no exception.

Why the market alone is not the reason to go

Many travel guides describe Piazza Navona as Rome's great Christmas market and compare it with Vienna or Strasbourg. I think that sets visitors up for disappointment. There is no mulled wine village, no long rows of craft huts, and some years the stalls fill only part of the square.

The better way to see it is as one stop on a December evening walk. Go for the square itself, the fountains under the lights and a bag of chestnuts. Then spend the rest of your time on the nativity scenes in Rome's churches, which are the true Roman Christmas tradition. Many churches in the centre display a presepe from early December, free to enter.

Closer to home, the giant Christmas tree and nativity scene in St Peter's Square are only ten minutes on foot from Ottaviano. They are usually unveiled in early or mid December and are lit until well into January. On the way back from Piazza Navona you can also continue to the Trevi Fountain, with our visit tips for guests staying in Prati, which is another 15 minutes east and far quieter after 9 pm.

If the weather turns

December in Rome is mild, often 12 to 15 degrees in the afternoon, but rain arrives in short heavy bursts. Stalls stay open in light rain and close in storms. On a wet evening, keep the market for another night and try our ideas for what to do in Prati on a rainy day instead.

Frequently asked questions

When does the Piazza Navona Christmas market open?

It has usually opened in the first week of December and closed on 6 January, the feast of the Epiphany. Exact dates depend on permits granted by the city each year. We check the current dates for guests and can tell you at check in.

Is the Piazza Navona Christmas market free to visit?

Yes, the square is public and there is no entry fee. You only pay for what you buy, such as sweets, chestnuts or a ride on the carousel. Bring some cash in small notes, since not every stall takes cards.

How long should I spend at the Piazza Navona Christmas market?

Most visitors need 45 minutes to an hour to walk the stalls, look at the fountains and buy a snack. Families with young children often stay longer for the carousel. Combined with the walk from Prati, plan on about two hours in total.